Or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Ch-3 (That Doesn’t Count)
I’ve recently published my very first pattern, a free version of the whole pattern. A paid version is coming later with photos, a chart, and a few other bells and whistles, but more of that later.
A lovely person contacted me and asked me why I started the rounds with ch-3 doesn’t count. What a great question I thought, so here’s a deep dive into my mind. I mean crochet science!
The Problem With Starting Chains (And Why We’re All Slightly Traumatized)
Let’s be honest: if you’ve been crocheting for more than five minutes, you’ve probably stared at a lopsided circle or a wonky garment seam and thought, “There has GOT to be a better way.”
The culprit? That innocent-looking starting chain at the beginning of your round. You know the one. The ch-3 that’s supposed to count as your first treble (UK), double (US) crochet but instead creates a visible gap that makes your work look like it’s missing a tooth. The chain that’s simultaneously too loose, too obvious, and somehow always in the wrong place when you’re trying to join at the end of the round. Or making it confusing where you should be joining.
But here’s where it gets interesting (and delightfully geeky): there are actually MULTIPLE schools of thought on how to handle this problem, each with its own logic, physics, and devoted followers. Let’s dive into the chaos, shall we?
But before I start, you do you! This is a bit of a tongue in cheek deep dive. No harm intended and certainly no intention to hurt anyone’s feelings. We develop our own ways, select our favourite methods because we are all unique and I celebrate your chosen way! Go you!
Method 1: The Traditional “Chain Counts As First Stitch” Approach
What it is: Ch-3 at the start of a tr (UK) dc (US) round, skip the first stitch space, work into the second stitch, and join to the top of that starting ch-3 at the end.
The theory: The chain mimics the height of a double crochet stitch, so it should functionally BE your first double/treble crochet.
The reality: That chain is about as convincing as a treble/double crochet as a cardboard cutout of a person is convincing as an actual human. Sure, it’s the right height, but it’s missing the body, the structure, the je ne sais quoi of a proper stitch. Plus, you get:
- A visible gap at the start of your round
- An awkward “tooth missing” look
- A join that’s often bulky and obvious
- Confusion about where exactly to join (top of ch-3? which chain? WHICH ONE?!)
Best for: Traditional patterns, crocheters who learned from their grandmothers, people who enjoy a vintage aesthetic, or anyone who’s given up fighting it.
Method 2: The “One Chain Shorter” Rebellion
What it is: Ch-2 (instead of ch-3) for treble (UK)/double crochet (US) height, then work your first ACTUAL tr/dc into the first stitch space. The chain doesn’t count as a stitch.
The theory: Here’s where the physics gets interesting! The problem with the traditional ch-3 method isn’t just aesthetic—it’s structural. When you chain 3 and skip a stitch, you’re creating both a height element AND introducing negative space (the skipped stitch). By using only ch-2, you’re compensating for the fact that you’re NOT skipping that first stitch space.
Why this works (sort of): Think of it like this: a double crochet stitch has both HEIGHT and WIDTH. When you work a real tr/dc into that first space, you’re getting both dimensions. The ch-2 is ONLY providing height, not width, so you need less chain to reach the same functional height when you’re immediately following it with a full-bodied stitch.
The “but wait, won’t it be shorter?” question: You’d think so, right? By the laws of physics, ch-2 should be shorter than ch-3! But here’s the clever bit: the top of your first REAL stitch (the one you work right after the ch-2) becomes your actual row height. The chain is just scaffolding to get you there.
The potential problem: Technically, yes, this can create a slight lean or pull at the beginning of your row if your tension isn’t consistent. The ch-2 is legitimately shorter than a tr/dc, so your first real stitch has to do some vertical stretching to reach proper height. For some crocheters, this creates a subtle skew. For others (especially “lifters” who naturally make taller stitches), it’s perfectly fine.
Best for: Rows rather than rounds, crocheters with naturally tall stitches, patterns where stitch count is more important than perfect height symmetry.
Method 3: The Chainless Starting Stitch (The Overachiever’s Choice)
What it is: Create an actual treble/double crochet stitch without using any starting chains. You literally construct a fake tr/dc stitch from scratch using a series of yarn-overs and pulls.
The theory: Why pretend a chain is a stitch when you can just MAKE a stitch?
The technique:
- Yarn over
- Insert hook into first stitch
- Pull up a loop
- [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice
- Twist the resulting stitch to the right so it faces forward
- Voilà! A real, honest-to-goodness starting stitch.
The advantages:
- No gap!
- Perfectly matches your other stitches
- Seamless appearance
- Makes you feel like a crochet wizard
The disadvantages:
- More complex technique to learn
- Requires that twist maneuver (which is easy to forget)
- Can be tricky to get tension right
- Might confuse people following your patterns
I love this method for some projects but not for others.
Best for: Perfectionists, amigurumi makers, anyone working in the round with visible seams, people who want Instagram-worthy joins.
Method 4: The Full-Height Chain That Doesn’t Count (The Secret Weapon)
What it is: Ch-3 for treble/double crochet height, but DON’T skip the first stitch—work your first real dc right into that first stitch space. The chain doesn’t count as a stitch. Join to your first REAL stitch at the end.
Why this might be THE answer: This method solves multiple problems simultaneously:
- Height is correct: Your ch-3 brings the yarn up to the proper height, preventing that squashed look at the start of the round
- No gap: Because you’re working a real stitch into the first space, there’s no missing-tooth effect
- Clear join point: At the end of the round, you join to your first REAL stitch, which is easy to identify and mark
- Reduced seam visibility: The join is less bulky because you’re joining to a stitch with the same structure as everything else
- Stitch count stays accurate: Your stitch count is what it should be because you’re not counting that chain
The physics of it: Think of the starting chain as a ladder that gets you up to the right floor, but once you’re there, you’re building a REAL support column (your first stitch) rather than pretending the ladder IS the support column. The chain lifts you to the correct height without creating negative space or pretending to be something it’s not.
Why isn’t everyone doing this? Great question! It seems so obvious once you try it. The likely reasons:
- Traditional patterns established the “chain counts as stitch” convention decades ago
- The shorter chain method (ch-2) became the popular rebellion, overshadowing this approach
- Pattern designers haven’t widely adopted or named this technique
- It’s SO intuitive that it doesn’t seem “special” enough to write about
- It does use a teeny bit more yarn, which if you’re making a full size blanket would mount up.
Best for: Working in the round, garments with visible seams, anyone who wants clear join points, crocheters tired of marking stitches with multiple stitch markers, people who value both aesthetics AND simplicity.
Since I started beginning a round with the number of chains to match the stitch height and not counting them as a stitch, I haven’t looked back. It’s my go to now. But as I said at the beginning, you do you.
The Golden Loop: A Related But Different Beast
Here’s where terminology gets confusing (because crochet terminology isn’t confusing enough already, right?).
The Golden Loop Method isn’t actually about starting chains at all—it’s about adjusting your stitch HEIGHT through awareness of that first loop you pull through your work.
The concept: Every crochet stitch begins by pulling up a loop through your fabric. The size of this “golden loop” determines your stitch height. Some crocheters (“lifters”) naturally pull this loop high, creating taller stitches. Others (“yankers”) pull it tight, creating shorter rows. Some (“riders”) keep it neutral.
Why it matters: If your gauge width is perfect but your row height is off, adjusting your golden loop technique can fix it without changing hooks or tension.
How it relates to starting chains: If you’re a lifter with naturally tall stitches, you might find the ch-2 method works perfectly for you. If you’re a yanker with compressed stitches, you might need that full ch-3 even when it doesn’t count, just to achieve proper height.
So Which Method Should YOU Use?
The honest answer? It depends on your project, your personal crochet style, and what drives you less crazy.
Use Traditional (chain counts as stitch) if:
- Stitch count accuracy matters more than aesthetics
- You’re okay with visible seams
- You’re making something like a blanket where joins aren’t prominent
Use Shorter Chain (ch-2 for tr/dc) if:
- You’re working in rows
- You’re a lifter with naturally tall stitches
- Stitch count is crucial
- The pattern specifically calls for it
Use Chainless Starting Stitch if:
- You’re working in the round with visible seams
- You want that chef’s-kiss perfect finish
- You’re making amigurumi or toys
- You have the patience of a saint
Use Full-Height Chain That Doesn’t Count if:
- You want the best of both worlds
- You’re working in the round
- You want clear, obvious join points
- You value both aesthetics and simplicity
- You’re tired of fishing for where that starting chain went
Use Standing Stitches if:
- You’re joining new yarn
- You’re doing colour changes
- You want seamless stripe work
The Notation Problem (And How to Solve It)
One reason these techniques remain confusing is that pattern notation hasn’t standardized around them. You might see:
- “Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc)”
- “Ch 3, counts as tr/dc”
- “Ch 2, tr/dc in first st”
- “Chainless starting /trdc”
- “Standing tr/dc”
But you rarely see: “Ch 3 (doesn’t count as a stitch), tr/dc in first st, join to first tr/dc” with a clear explanation of what that achieves.
If you’re writing patterns using the full-height-doesn’t-count method, consider:
- Stating it clearly at the beginning: “All starting chains in this pattern do not count as stitches”
- Being explicit in each round: “Ch 3 (doesn’t count), tr/dc in first st”
- Clarifying the join: “Join with sl st to first tr/dc (not to the ch-3)”
- Maybe even adding a note: “This method eliminates gaps and makes the join point obvious”
- 5. Add to all of that the UK/US differences!
The Bottom Line
The beauty of crochet is that there’s rarely ONE right way to do anything. Each of these methods exists because different crocheters, working with different yarns, tensions, and projects, needed different solutions.
In my most humblest of opinions, the full-height chain that doesn’t count as a stitch deserves more recognition because it elegantly solves multiple problems: it maintains proper height, eliminates gaps, creates clear join points, and requires no special techniques beyond what beginning crocheters already know.
Sometimes the best solutions are the simple ones that were hiding in plain sight all along, (like that pesky little starting stitch that was once a single, teeny tiny little chain all on its own that’s now been pulled by tension into invisibility!).
Now go forth and crochet—with whichever starting method makes your heart sing and your stitches beautiful. And if anyone asks what technique you’re using, you can now explain it with delightful, geeky precision.
Happy crocheting, and may all your joins be invisible if that’s important to you! Me. I’m more of a that’ll do. Would love to read your comments.